Distant Summers 1936 - 1938

In 1936, P. G. Downes decided to canoe into northern Saskatchewan from Pelican Narrows to Brochet at the northern end of Reindeer Lake.  His daily journal records the trials and tribulations of the trip, plus who he met and what he learned.  Unfortunately Downes was unable to complete the trip due to weather conditions and limited time.  For anyone who has canoed in northern Saskatchewan, this will bring back memories of your own trips.

Downes returned early the following summer, however he travelled up the lake to Brichet with others in an 18 foot, powered canoe.  His intention on this trip is to learn more about the people of the area and their stories.  Another objective of Downes was to photograph the people.  Many were very shy about having their picture taken.  Part of his return trip homeward bound included a flight in a float plane, and offered a different perspective to the lake and rivers he had travelled over.  One of his experiences includes smokey days due to forest fires in the area.

Before getting to Downes' travels of 1938, numerous Cree tales are recounted.

On June 23, 1938 Downes left Prince Albert, Saskatchewan for Ile a la Crosse in a float plane.  His description of being aboard that plane reminded me of a few similar flights I've taken on float planes on my own canoe trips in northern Saskatchewan.  The canoe trip from there to La Loche was not an easy one as the river they travelled on was low, with many meanders, and much poking needed.  Rather than using the 12 mile Methye Portage, Downes' guide uses the 20 mile Swan Lake Portage to the Clearwater River.

Downes finds the Clearwater River different compared to the ones he had canoed previously.  As he nears Fort McMurray he discovers that there is a sulphurous smell and taste to the water on occasion.  At Fort McMurray, Downes buys a canoe and starts off downriver on the Athabasca River on his own.  As he travels downstream he foresees a time when oil will be retrieved from the tar sands to supply the world.  He discovers that the delta of the Athabasca is winding and muddy.  His trip across the western end of Lake Athabasca is fraught with large waves, but he makes it to Fort Chipewyan without any water in his canoe.

Moving north onto the Slave River, Downes finds the river flowing fast and more rapids to maneuver.  By the end of July he is at Fort Smith.  He waits there for a ride on a barge northwards on the Slave River.  He is experiencing some depression and has an infection in one of his legs.  Once on the Mackenzie River, Downe's spirits lift a bit.  As they progress northwards, the river widens and the landscape changes.  At Norman Wells, Downes trip turns up the Bear River.  By mid-August he has arrived at Great Bear Lake.

A couple of days later he is at Eldorado and has the opportunity to tour the mine there.  On the 28th he flies out to Yellowknife.  The community there is very different.  At the beginning of September Downes departed Yellowknife once again on a barge.  Arriving at Fort Smith he is held up before being able to fly out and home.

For anyone who has canoed in northern Saskatchewan or been further north canoeing, I highly recommend this book.  Although it was written 80 years ago the sense of remoteness is still there today.  The author also gives you an insight into how things were at that time, allowing the reader the opportunity to compare it to modern times.